Cruising the Orkney islands: How to make the most of your campervan or motorhome adventure

Van Travel

Orkney, A magnificent archipelago off the north coast of Scotland is famous for its cliffs, quaint villages, Norse influence, and neolithic ruins. Home to the oldest Neolithic settlement in Northern Europe: Skara Brae. Among other incredible stone age sites with over 5000 years of history, Orkney is visited annually by droves of people wanting to walk through time. Only a hop away from the mainland of Scotland. An hour and 40-minute long ferry from Scrabster to Stromness makes Orkney one of the most straightforward and most accessible of the Scottish isles to get to after Skye.

The absolute best way to see Orkney is to drive it. You will be able to see and do more and enjoy more of what Orkney has to offer with convenience. If you are keeping within a budget so your money can travel further, being self-sufficient in your campervan on Orkney is economical and helps your money go a long way!  You can take your motorhome, caravan, and campervan abroad on the ferry, and driving in Orkney is very pleasant as the roads are easy to navigate and well-maintained. We took our campervan (Jungle Jim) over in February for a 3-day trip, and it was incredible. Here is everything you need to know about touring in your campervan on Orkney!

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One of Kirkwalls many churches

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Love a clifftop selfie

Orkney people and culture

Orkney was voted Scotlands’ best place to live for the 8th time in a row (nonetheless) It’s easy to see why. Once you step foot here, you instantly feel a sense of ease and timelessness. Orcadians have a strong sense of community which is at the heart of their culture-rich and historical island. The Orkney Islands’ history dates back thousands of years. The Picts settled the islands in ancient times and later by the Vikings, who left a lasting impact on the island’s culture and language. Orkney Island is also one of the world’s most important centres for the history of the Neolithic civilisations, with many well-preserved prehistoric sites, standing stones and tombs. The islands have a unique blend of Scottish and Norse traditions and are known for their traditional art, music, literature, and crafts. this, along with modern traditions, makes Orkney a really fascinating place to visit.

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Fantastical sunrises for early risers

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Happy doggies, with walks for miles

How to get there & how long to stay

There are a few ferry options you can take from the North of Scotland. There are ferries from; John O’Groats, Gills Bay, Scrabster, and Aberdeen. Most routes run from Scrabster (on the mainland) to Stromness (one of the main towns on Orkney) There is one route you can get from Gills Bay to St Margarets Hope, which is far South on the island and also a very convenient John O Groats ferry to Burwick (that one is only for foot passengers/cycles, not vehicles thought) We took the Northlinkferries.

Tickets on Northlink Ferries start from £239 return for a motorhome (up to 7 metres.) These fares fluctuate depending on the season you travel. The Ferry takes a little over an hour and a half and there is plenty to keep you entertained on board with all the amenities you would need. Arrive at least 30 minutes early for ferry check-in, they are strict and punctual.

Although a short trip, The Pentland firth can get extremely choppy. In fact, it is one of the most treacherous and dangerous straits of sea in the world. Renowned for the strength and ferocity of the tides. It’s nicknamed “Hells Mouth” and is a graveyard for many sunken ships!

We stayed two nights and three days and found that to be sufficient time. If you are going to explore the other islands and visit the Old Man of Hoy and spend a bit of time exploring the neolithic sites up to a week would be more than enough time! Follow our itinerary here.

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North ferries coming into the island

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Kirwall harbour, where too?

Campervan and motorhome hire Orkney
If you don’t want to take your own campervan or maybe you don’t have one there are plenty of options for you! Small but connected, hiring a campervan in Scotland couldn’t be easier. Scotland’s size makes it accessible, convenient, and easy to hire a motorhome, RV, or campervan and drive it pretty much anywhere.  Plenty of companies on the mainland offer rentals of all shapes, sizes, and styles suited to your needs! Most companies operate out of the bigger cities: Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen Dundee and Inverness.  Have a look at Goboony, Indie Campers,and Camptoo. Prices usually start at around £51 a night and can go up to £200 or so for a 6+ berth camper or motorhome.

If you prefer the convenience of hiring a Campervan on Orkney to save on ferry fees. In that case, there are a few options: Orkney Campervan Hire, or camperbug as well as Northern Lights Motorhome Hire are all local companies with great reviews.

Navigating 

Roads on Orkney are safe, well-maintained, and driveable for all types of vehicles. Simple-to-navigate roads connect you from the north of the island all the way to the south. One of the reasons Orkney is fantastic for motorhome and campervan travel is the accessibility of its roads. Petrol stations are dotted all around, so you won’t ever be too far from gas and services. Like the rest of Scotland, you won’t have much difficulty finding parking. Check this Orkney parking directory out. There is also a long-stay car park in Stromness outside the ferry terminal which allows overnight parking, excellent and convenient for the ferry.

Parking

Like the rest of Scotland, you won’t have much difficulty finding parking. Check this Orkney parking directory out. There is also a long-stay car park in Stromness outside the ferry terminal which allows overnight parking, excellent and convenient for the ferry.

Wild camping

Now here us out, yes, we did wild camp on Orkney but we would definitely recommend only to wild camping during low season when there aren’t many tourists. We visited the island in the middle of February and found wild camping to be hassle-free but we also saw almost no other tourists, campervans, or motorhomes whilst we were there. We stuck to spots that didn’t have any overnight restrictions and followed our van life rules to live by! We also stayed in the town centres (where there is free parking in the evenings and Sundays!) Stromness, the first night as we caught the late ferry into Orkney and Kirkwall the second night as the Orcadian winds were just too powerful to wild park along the coast!

Wild camping, is allowed on Orkney: as it is part of the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, but remember the code doesn’t apply to vehicles. During the summer months. Orkney can get overrun with tourists, motorhomes, and campervans and can get very congested. Due to this, there can be some discouragement from disgruntled locals about wild parking. Don’t let that put you off, but always be sensible, remain a respectful van-lifer, and follow these rules.

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Rugged park ups with stormy views

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Cold days and warm teas

Orkney campsites
When it is busy it may be wise and advisable to make use of the 15 different campsites on the island. They can fill up fast in the summer months, so make sure you book ahead of time: you can book here. Some campsites are seasonal, so if you are travelling in autumn or winter, the average cost for a night is £25. Check for places that may offer services for a donation and make use of the donation box.

Check out the following Campsites:

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Orkney caravan park

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Kirkwall bay touring park

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Point of ness caravan site

Orkney campervan and motorhome services
Water

There are 49 listed water taps in Orkney. You will be able to find public water taps that provide clean, safe drinking water to residents and visitors. Most of the taps will probably have to fill up a jerry can. Use these Apps to find water taps: Water Tap Map

Bins
Having travelled all around Scotland, I can say from experience that bins are everywhere. If there are no bins we like to use the trasharoo to hang on the back of your motorhome or campervan, which stores your rubbish away from wildlife, keeps your camper and campsite neat and tidy, and keeps any nasty smells out of your van.

Public toilets

Public toilets aren’t as abundant but you can still find them!  There is a handy map to help you find them: Toilet Map. Remember you can always empty your chemical toilet into a flushing, non- composting or septic tank toilet if you can’t find a black water disposal.

Black and grey water disposal

Black and Grey Water Disposal points are available at campsites all around Orkney. Check out the following Campsites:
Orkney Caravan Park 
Kirkwall Bay Touring Park,
The Point of Ness Caravan & Camping Site Birsay Outdoor Centre Campsite, 

Cellular network
Orkney doesn’t have the best 4G or 5G cellular network however you can stay connected. It’s best to check the signal checker to see what carrier has the best coverage options. We used an EE sim and a Netgear router which was a good combination and with expansive coverage whilst travelling around the UK.
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Public toilets with views

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Taps are hard to come by but around

Orkney weather

Expect powerful, strong and gusty winds on Orkney. Nothing will prepare you for the sheer force of the gales that batter the isles all year round. As well as all mighty gales, no trip to Orkney is complete without preparing for some rain. Orkney is wet and often rains, much like the rest of Scotland. The best times to visit Orkney when rains and winds are (a bit) calmer are during the summer months: May, June and July. However, with preparation and the right warm clothing, Orkney can be a trip for all year round!

What to budget
Orkney isn’t the cheapest travel destination. One newspaper article found it to be cheaper to live in London than in Orkney! However, travelling in a home on wheels will save you costs on accommodation and meals out your biggest spenders!) Campsites are a fraction of the price compared to Airbnb or hotels. If you are on a big budget you can buy groceries in economy stores like Lidl and Aldi. Many tourist attractions are free, some are paid for. Expect to pay around £7-£10 for admission for a full price Adult ticket, there is a price list all over the sites on Orkney Here- Tickets and admissions.

Keep track of your spending with this helpful travel spending and we like to use this website before going to a place to have a rough guide of what to budget: Numbeo

Average prices

  • Coffee £2.50
  • Milk £0.66 per litre
  • Loaf of bread £0.73
  • Potato (1kg) £0.50
  • Meal for 2- mid-range restaurant £40.00
  • Domestic Beer 1/2 litre £3.50
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Miles of unusual coastal walks to be enjoyed

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Disused harbour machine

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Orkney from the ferry

Must visit Orkney

Things to see

These are our absolutely unmissable and must-visit places on Orkney:

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    Skarae Brae, not to be missed

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    Skiba Geo whale head

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    The Italian chapel

    We hope you enjoyed reading as much as we enjoyed writing, please let us know if you have been on an Orcadian adventure or planning in the comments below. feel free to sign up if you enjoyed the read!

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