The Ultimate Guide to Van Life in Romania: From Scenic Routes to Hidden Gems

Do you love the rich history, stunning landscapes, incredible road trips and being totally immersed in nature? Then like us you will love Romania. It is truly a hidden gem of a country. For us, it is the perfect country for nature lovers and van life. Romania is located in the southeast of Europe and offers a unique blend of traditional culture, inspiring scenery, wild nature and unbelievable attractions. From the charming medieval city of Sighisoara to the breathtaking natural beauty of the Carpathian Mountains, Romania is a destination with something for everyone and there’s truly no better way to visit than in a campervan and motorhome. We loved and wrote this guide to share everything we learnt so more people would consider exploring and travelling to this exceptional country.

Sighisora

Romania

Nestled in the heart of southeastern Europe: Romania is a country of 19.12 million people, mostly populated in urban cities. Romania is spread out across 238,397 km² making it one of the largest countries in Europe. The climate is temperate, with four distinct seasons and a rich variety of landscapes. Romania is home to some of Europe’s most unique landscapes on the European continent like the UNESCO Danube Delta, where the magnificent Danube Delta drains into the Black Sea. The official language of Romania is Romanian, a romance language with very strong similarities to Italian. Romania also has quite a few minority languages, including Hungarian and Romani. The level and standard of English spoken in Romania is proficient and which makes getting around easier. 

Romanian cities are dynamic, bustling and economic hubs with everything you could possibly want or need. Leaving the cities behind and heading into rural Romania you will experience many farming communities, a slower pace of life and development with the times. It is not uncommon to see some poverty and developing communities in rural areas.

Romanian people and culture

Romania is famous for some of the world’s most popular, mysteries and enticing legends and folklore. The moodiness and unrefined nature of Transylvania. With its Creaking old wooden houses, perched on top of misty hills and churches that summon you across a deep valley inspired a centurion classic in Bram Stokers: Dracula. Somewhat overshadowed by Dracula, Romania has so many other incredible tales and stories waiting to be discovered. Romanian Culture is extremely diverse and brings together traditions, history and heritage from the villages in the high Carpathian mountains to the sunny black sea beach resorts around constanta.

The Romanian people are honestly, some of the kindest, most hospitable and friendliest in all of Europe. We were blown away by the level of warmth and hospitality with received. Smiling is very common here and Romanians will welcome you with wide-open arms and hearts.  They are friendly and respectful towards tourists and have a very laid-back and amiable attitude toward each other. They are a deeply religious people with 99% of the populations identifying as christians. Remember to be mindful of this when visiting churches and religious sites, always dress moderately and appropriately. Cover your knees, shoulders, elbows and bring a scarf to throw over yourself. 

Best time to visit

With four distinct seasons, Romania is great all year round. Depending on what you like to see and do, Romania has a lot to offer in all seasons.

Summer
In summer the climate gets hot and relaxing by the beaches of the black sea is a fantastic holiday. Although watch out as temperatures can get really high with long hot days, think about how comfortable this will be in a campervan or motorhome.

Winter
If you are more of a snow sports and mountains kind of person the winters are your time to shine. Snowcapped mountains and great skiing with exceptionally snowy and cold days. The only negative aspect about travelling to Romania in Winter is some of the high mountain passes and regional roads can close due to the weather conditions. Famous roads like the Transafaragsan and the TransAlpina close usually from October – May, and these are not to be missed.

Autumn/Spring
If you find yourself in Romania in the Autumn or spring you will get to marvel at the changing seasons in some of the most beautiful landscapes in Europe. Nature is untouched here and there’s plenty of it to truly immersive yourself.

We travelled in Romania for late summer in August and September. It was a fantastic time to travel as it didn’t seem so touristy and busy and all the routes we wanted to do were open. We recommend going between May- October so you can really enjoy all the mountain passs they have.

Is van life in Romania safe?

Van life in Romania is extremely safe! Contrary to popular belief Romania is a very safe country with a low crime rate. Just check some of the statistics out for yourself here. The country is safe to travel to and around, with the exception of the Ukrainian border. However, like in any other country, visitors should exercise caution and take basic safety precautions at all times. Petty and opportunistic crimes can happen at any moment, especially in bigger cities.

We found van life in Romania to be really safe, we had no issues or situations. van life anywhere in the world comes with its negatives though, and safety is one of them, have common sense where every you go and be careful in bigger cities.

What is van life in Romania like?

Romania is one of the best places in Europe to do van life. Expect a lot of wilderness and amazing spots to stay overnight by the river. There are minimal parking restrictions are minimal and the locals are kind. Romanians love the outdoors and welcome campervan and motorhome tourists with open arms. The friendliness of the locals, the amazing scenery and the relaxed attitudes make it one of the easiest and the best countries for van life in Europe. It is a wonderful country to visit if you are adventurous and want to experience wild nature, Romania is truly a hidden gem.

Should I do van life in Romania?

Romania has some of the best road trips in all of Europe. The people are warm and friendly, wild camping is tolerated and nature is abundant here. It is also one of the more affordable countries in Europe and it isn’t in the Schengen zone. These are just some of the reasons why you would choose van life here.

The Transfăgărășan Road

Must visit scenic routes & hidden gems

Local cuisine

Romanian Cuisine is hearty and warming much like the people. Expect to taste influences from neighbouring regions and cultures like Ottoman, Balkan, Hungarian and Mediterranean. Largely a meat-focused cuisine with an emphasis on pork. Traditional Roman dishes combine local pork into favourites like Mici mini Sausages, Tochitură; a delicious stew and  Sarmale: pork stuffed cabbage rolls.

Vegans and Vegetarians
Although traditional Romanian cuisine is heavily based on meat, there are some traditional plant-based dishes including zacusca, a vegetable spread made from roasted eggplant and peppers, and fasole batută, a bean dip made from mashed beans, onions, and garlic. It’s really yummy.

It is also important to note that if you are travelling during religious holidays, Romanians fast. Fasting is an important part of religious practice in Romania, particularly during the Orthodox Christian holy season of Lent. During this time, many Romanians abstain from meat, dairy, and other animal products, and instead consume a diet of vegetables, fruits, and grains. You can find lots of vendors and dishes in the supermarket that serve vegan dishes during this time.

Bucharest

Bucharest is the capital of Romania. It is a vibrant city with a rich history and culture. It is famous for the Palace of the Parliament, an example of Communist-era architecture. It is the second largest administrative building in the world, after the Pentagon. Pretty imposing and well worth a visit. Other experiences in Bucharest not to miss are the old town; Lipscani, a charming neighbourhood known for its narrow, cobbled streets and well-preserved medieval architecture, as well as its lively nightlife scene. As well as Calea Victoriei, a historic street that runs through the heart of Bucharest and is lined with landmarks, including the National Museum of Art, the National Military Museum, and the George Enescu Museum. The absolute must-visit favourite for us in Bucharest was Bucharest Therme. An incredible Spa, thermal, and swimming pool complex with an emphasis on experiences. There are over 1000 orchids that line the indoor/ outdoor pool and several themed steam rooms and spa treatments are on offer, all at a very reasonable price.

Unlike many other European capital cities; Bucharest’s roads are very wide and easy to drive around. It is busy and traffic can get congested but apart from that it is an absolutely fine driving experience. We found that there were that many narrow roads or height restrictions which probably makes it easy to drive into no matter the size of your rig!

Parking in the capital: We stayed in Bucharest on two separate occasions and parked at a paid, secure and guarded parking facility in the centre of Bucharest. You can find it easily on park4night. We would recommend only staying in a guarded parking area or a campsite if you are planning on leaving your vehicle unattended.

Bucharest Parking: 100 Lei for 24 hours Park4night ID 54660,
60, Strada Sfinții Apostoli, 040091, Bucharest

Wild parking by the river

Sunset on the river

Getting there

Romania has five neighbours and borders the Black sea, there are many border crossing options for you depending on where you are traveling from.

Borders

Border crossings

With five neighbours, Romania has several border crossings. We went through two crossings; from Hungary into Romania and from Romania into Bulgaria.

Hungary – Romania
Nyírábrányi Közúti Határátkelőhely Border Crossing
This was a really simple and easy crossing which did not take long. We queued for a few minutes, drove through passport control and then through customs where they had a quick look in our van. We then proceeded through the border. We stopped just past the border to buy a Romanian Vignette for tolls. We showed the usual documents when crossing the border: passports, V5 vehicle insurance etc. They did not ask about our Dog or Cat even though they saw them which was a plus. Super fast and easy experience.

Romania- Bulgaria

Friendship Bridge Giurgiu- Ruse, Border Crossing
The border from Romania to Bulgaria was extremely simple. Probably one of the easiest so far. We drove through passport control, got our passports stamped and then straight through the Bulgarian checks with very few questions. This border was one of my favourites because it has a lovely friendship bridge and the bridge and crossing, crosses over the Danube.

Navigating the roads

Hiking in Bukovina

Parking and overnight parking

If you are parked in the wilderness somewhere rural, it is very common to see passing by shepherds with their flock. Be careful and wary of this, if you are setting out your camping things. The passing shepherds are all so kind and friendly and happy to wave, smile and have a chat with you. Just remember not to get in their way and respect them if they pass you by.

We found that parking our campervan in nature was so simple and easy, the abundance of wild parking in Romania is incredible. We found Romania to be a real river nation and rivers run wild and free all over the country. We mainly parked along rivers and found them to be so refreshing and beautiful. We had absolutely no trouble with wild parking and overnight parking the entire way around Romania. We stayed for almost 2 months in Romania and wild camped the entire way around the country. We found it safe, tolerated and really enjoyable. We used park4night to find most of our spots.

Regions, routes and road trips

Romania is home to nine historic regions, each of which has its own unique culture and heritage. The Regions are:

• Transylvania – a large region in central Romania known for its rich history and cultural heritage
• Moldavia – a region in northeastern Romania that was once a separate principality
• Wallachia – a region in southern Romania that was also once a separate principality
• Maramureș – a region in northwestern Romania known for its traditional wooden architecture and folk traditions
• Banat – a region in western Romania, located in the plains between the Danube, Tisza, and Mureș rivers
• Bukovina – a region in northeastern Romania known for its painted monasteries and stunning natural scener
• Crisana – a region in northwestern Romania, located along the western border of Transylvania
• Oltenia – a region in southwestern Romania, located in the plains between the Danube and the Southern Carpathians
• Dobrogea – a region in southeastern Romania located on the Black Sea coast

These historical regions are still recognized today, but they no longer have administrative status, they have since been modernised and split up further.

The most famous and without a doubt best road trip in Romania (possibly even the world?!) has to be The Transfăgărășan is a scenic mountain road in Romania that runs through the Carpathian Mountains, specifically in the Făgăraș Mountains. The road is considered one of the most beautiful mountain roads in the world and is a popular tourist destination for its stunning views and challenging twists and turns. The road was built between 1970 and 1974, during the communist regime in Romania, and was meant to provide military access to the region in case of a potential Soviet invasion. The road is approximately 90 km long and reaches an altitude of 2042 m at its highest point. The Transfăgărășan is open to motorists from May to October and offers breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains, valleys, and forests. It is incredible. As well as being one of the best roads, the very bottom of it where the road joins with the Vidraru Dam is a really popular spot to see wild bears!

Hiring a campervan or motorhome

If you don’t have your campervan or motorhome with you, you can hire one to travel around Romania in. Motorhome and campervan hire is common in Romania and here are a few trustworthy companies in Romania and Europe to rent through:

• Rent a Camper.Ro
• AutoEurope
• Goboony

The Romanian outdoors

Romanians love the outdoors: hiking, camping and adventure are an integral part of their culture. With such a vast and varied landscape it is not hard to see why. There are 14 national parks and yes, they are all stunning. Remember to double-check the requirements for overnight parking and camping when you arrive. We found these hidden gems to be amazing and unmissable:

Cheile Moara Dracului, Bucovina
An incredible magical gorge walk, through a limestone gorge with wooden platforms over streams.

Seven ladders canyon, Brasov
A series of bridges across a gorge with ladders and a zip line.

Zarnesti Gorge Hike, Piatra Craiului National Park
Very tight large rock walls and formations to walk through in a peaceful valley. If you are new to hiking, you can use the App All Trails to help you find a hike on your travels.

It has to be said that Romania does have its fair share of litter problems. The government is slowly trying to get on top of this, however, it is a long and slow process. That being said you should have an open mind and try to see beyond the problem when visiting the country. Don’t let the level of rubbish hinder your overall enjoyment of this amazing place. Try to leave it better by picking up rubbish on your hikes and if you are wild camping and parking up.

Wild camping in Romania

Romania has a very strong Camping Culture. Although wild camping is “technically illegal” people do it all the time, it’s completely tolerated and you will most likely not be bothered (just ask before if you are on private land.) It is common to see places where people have made a camp and a campfire in the wilderness. Taking a walk in nature you will often see remnants of a fire that has been prepared with new wood for the next person to use. Weekends get particularly busy with campers, Sunday being a really popular day to make a bbq and enjoy time in the outdoors with family and friends.

Romanian campsites

Faragas Mountains

Shopping, supplies and amenities

Romania offers a variety of shopping options, ranging from modern malls to traditional open-air markets. In larger cities such as Bucharest, there are several shopping malls that feature international and local brands, as well as restaurants, cafes, and entertainment options. There are also more authentic shopping experiences like open-air markets such as the Obor Market in Bucharest or the Piata Centrala in Cluj-Napoca. These markets offer a wide range of goods, including fresh produce, clothing, and household items, at lower prices than shopping centres.

For groceries: Some of the popular supermarket chains are Auchan, Mega Image, Carrefour, Kaufland, Penny and Lidl.

For van life and outdoor goods: There are many outdoor retailers so you will be able to stock up on any camping and van life essentials; Popular European outdoor chain Decathlon, has plenty of stores there.

Price of van life in Romania

From experience we found Romania, to be slightly cheap than other countries in Europe but not a lot cheaper. We thought doing a food shop from one of the major supermarkets was quite an average price for Europe, but definitely found the overall cost to be lower. We would say that Romania offers good value for money for travellers who are looking for a budget-friendly destination in Europe.

For a full cost of living and prices in Romania; check out this cool resource Numbeo

Public toilets

Free water taps

Old town of Sighishora

Grey and black waste disposal

Black and grey water disposals are not very common. you will usually have to rely on the facilities at campsites. You may be able to find a few big services and petrol stations that have large drains you can drain your grey water in. For black water waste, you can empty that into a public toilet.

Petrol stations

The current price of petrol in Romania is around € 1.49 per litre (at the time of writing this). You can use this mileage calculator to plan your trip.

Cellular networks and wifi

Essential safety tips

The emergency number in Romania is 112. If you are a traveller from Europe or the UK you should carry around a:UK Global Health Insurance Card (GHIC) or European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) The GHIC or EHIC card entitles you to free state-provided medical treatment in the case of an emergency. Any treatment provided is on the same terms as Romanian nationals.

Here are a few Safety tips to consider:

• If you are travelling during adverse weather or in the winter invest in the right equipment; snow chains or all-terrain tyres
• Download what3words so you can pin point exactly where you are in emergency situations
• Be careful and aware of bears if you are out in the wilderness
• When in big cities, do not leave your vehicle unattended or pay for secure guarded parking.

Family of bears

Travelling with pets Romania

Travelling in Romania with pets is much like the rest of Europe. You will need the following to bring your pets into Romania:

• A pet passport or animal health certificate
• Microchipped
• Fully vaccinated against rabies
• Up-to-date on treatments

The most important thing to mention about Romania is its stray population. Romania has a lot of strays. Emphasis on A LOT.  In particular stray dogs and if you have pets it can be a real worry if you run into a pack of strays. They can come out of nowhere, most places we parked up at unfortunately had strays. We had to start taking a walking stick with us to shoo them away, every time we walked our dog. We actually ended up adopting a stray kitten in Romania, but that’s a story for another day. The government are trying to improve the stray population but there’s still a lot of work to be done so always be careful and be prepared, and keep your pets on a leash at all times.

The standards of vets in Romania are extremely high and the prices are extremely affordable. We visited vets many times in Romania and found the service and affordability to be fantastic. if your pets get ill whilst travelling they will be in good hands.

First time at the vets in Romania

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